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KORNDEX – Home

Protective equipment Everything that goes with sanding.

Backing pads, interface pads, hand blocks, masking tape, guide coat and dust masks – everything for the job, not just the abrasive.

Related guides

Read first, then sand

Why the disc no longer grips the backing pad, how sandpaper stays dry and flat, and how to keep edges straight with a hand block – explained in brief.

  • Random orbital sander on the door of a black car

    Sanders & technique

    Sanding disc no longer sticks to the pad

    Usually the hook-and-loop on the backing pad is worn or clogged – rarely the disc. How to tell, how to look after the pad and when an interface pad helps.

    Read · 1 min
  • KORNDEX sanding discs, P240 sanding roll and sanding sheets on the workbench

    Abrasives

    How to store sandpaper properly

    Moisture and heat make sandpaper curl and age the bond. Keep it dry, flat and in its packaging – and here’s why curled paper sands worse.

    Read · 1 min
  • Sanding discs, sheets, a roll and sanding sponges next to a painted panel, wood, steel and plastic

    Sanders & technique

    Sanding edges, profiles and curves

    Where the random orbital sander can’t reach: hand block, sanding strips and non-woven abrasive – with a shaped block for profiles and without rounding over the edges.

    Read · 1 min

FAQ

Questions about accessories

Which backing pad fits my machine?

Three things have to match: the diameter (125 or 150 mm – the same as the discs), the mount – a 5/16" thread on most random orbital sanders, M8 on some – and the hole pattern for dust extraction. The KORNDEX pad has a 5/16" thread and multihole pattern, so it fits Festool, Mirka, Bosch Professional, Makita, Rupes and others with this mount. Your machine’s manual tells you which mount it has.

Which backing pad fits? →Hook-and-loop backing pad →

Do I need an interface pad?

For paint, curves and edges, yes: the soft layer between backing pad and disc gives a little, follows contours and protects edges. On flat surfaces and for heavy stock removal you can do without.

Interface pad in the glossary →Which backing pad fits? →

The sanding disc no longer sticks to the pad – why?

Usually it’s the backing pad, rarely the disc: its hook-and-loop wears out or gets clogged with dust. Clean clogged hook-and-loop with a soft brush or compressed air; if the hooks are flattened or discoloured, you need a new pad. To make it last: only switch the machine on once it’s on the surface and off before lifting it – an interface pad wears out instead of the backing pad.

Guide: when the hook-and-loop won’t hold →Hook-and-loop backing pad →

What is guide coat powder for?

It shows where you haven’t sanded yet: applied thinly to body filler or primer surfacer, the black powder stays in pores, scratches and low spots and disappears wherever the surface is flat. Reapply after every grit change – only move on to the next grit once no powder is left.

Avoiding pigtails and scratches →Guide coat powder →

How do I protect myself from sanding dust?

Extract first, right at the machine – with a perforated backing pad and perforated or mesh discs. Whatever still rises is caught by a tight-fitting FFP2 dust mask. Oak and beech dust is classed as carcinogenic, and paint and filler dust has no place in your lungs either.

Sanding dust: extraction and masks →

How should I store sandpaper?

Dry, at room temperature, flat in the original packaging – not in a damp cellar, not next to a radiator. Moisture makes paper curl; curled discs don’t sit flat and come off the hook-and-loop more easily. Lay slightly curled sheets flat under a weight for a day.

Storing sandpaper properly →

On shipping, invoices and returns: general shopping questions →