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Metal · 1 min read

Derusting and painting railings and garden gates

Loose rust and old paint off with P60 to P80, transitions with P120, key with P180 – bars and corners by hand, with non-woven abrasive or a sanding roll.

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Short answer: the grit sequence

Random orbital sander removing rust from a steel sheet

Rust and loose paint

Loosen flaking paint and scale rust with a wire brush or scraper first, then sand with P60 to P80 until only firmly bonded paint or bare metal remains. Treat rust in recesses that only the brush can reach with rust converter.

Bars, corners, scrollwork

Round bars and decorative parts are best sanded with a strip torn from a sanding roll, wrapped round the bar like a polishing cloth and pulled back and forth. In corners and on weld spots, non-woven abrasive helps because it adapts to any shape.

Keying and painting

Feather the transitions from bare metal to old paint with P120 and key everything with P180. Wipe off the dust, degrease and prime the same day – bare metal starts to rust overnight. Outdoors, only work in dry weather and above five degrees.

Galvanised parts

Many garden gates and railings are hot-dip galvanised. The zinc layer is the rust protection – it must not be sanded away. Only rough up galvanised surfaces with non-woven abrasive until they are evenly matt, then prime with an adhesion primer for zinc. Only sand down to bare metal where rust is already coming through.

FAQ

Can I use rust converter instead of sanding?

No. Rust converter is meant for residues in pores and recesses. Loose rust and old paint have to come off first, otherwise neither the converter nor the paint will hold.

Terms in this article

All terms in the sanding glossary →

The whole sequence at once

3 grits, 1 × smallest pack each: PRO ROLL 115 P80 · P120 · P180. We don’t stock P60 for this yet. P60 is available for 125 mm backing pads as PRO CUT 125.

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