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Plastic & resin · 1 min read

Sanding and polishing epoxy resin

River tables and castings: level coarse, then wet sand up to P2000 or P3000 and polish. Why the resin must be fully cured first.

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Short answer: the grit sequence

Random orbital sander on a wing, sanding dust on the paint

Let it cure fully first

Epoxy resin must be fully cured – depending on the resin and the temperature, that takes days. Soft resin smears, clogs any disc instantly and tears scratches. If in doubt, test in a corner: it should produce dust, not stick.

Level and refine

Remove bumps and overhangs with P120 to P180, then go finer step by step: P240, P320, P400, P600. The surface turns evenly matt as you go; shiny spots are low areas you have not reached yet.

Epoxy heats up when sanded – light pressure, lower speed, dust extraction, and an FFP2 mask against the fine dust.

Wet sand to a gloss

From P800, carry on wet: P1000, P1500, P2000 – and up to P3000 if you want it crystal clear. Then polish to a high gloss. A hazy film after polishing almost always means the scratches from one grade were not fully removed.

FAQ

Which grit should I use to key epoxy before pouring another layer?

P180 to P240, until the whole surface is evenly matt. Remove the dust thoroughly and the next layer will bond.

Why does epoxy turn milky when sanded?

Those are fine scratches, not damage to the resin. It gets clearer with every finer grit and is transparent again after polishing.

Terms in this article

All terms in the sanding glossary →

The whole sequence at once

10 grits, 1 × smallest pack each: PRO CUT 150 (10 pcs) P120 · P180 · P240 · P320 · P400 · P600, PRO FILM 150 (10 pcs) P800 · P1000 · P1500, SOFT FINISH (10 pcs) P2000.

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